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The American southwest- the Colorado Plateau region by car

An amazing discovery of the mystery and awesomeness of the Colorado Plateau created by nature billions of years ago… stunning canyons, buttes, vibrant colours and many hidden secrets of the natural beauty of the American Southwest.

Las Vegas, Valley of Fire, Zion Park and Kanab:

Many non- Americans are fascinated by the American Interstate Highway not only because of the impressive modern engineering marvel that it is but also the fact that it was a catalyst for economic progress and changes in American cultural expression. In fact it was President Dwight Eisenhower, 34th president of the USA who made it his mission to have the major arteries of America built and improved for security reasons. He signed the Federal-Aid Highway Act of 1956, which initiated the largest public works program in American history. Since then the longest and most modern system of highways in the world brought America closer together but paradoxically also widened its differences in culture and living conditions.

The highway was also a result of America’s car culture, thanks to the introduction of Henry Ford’s ‘Model T’ in 1908. To underline this phenomenon, in recent times it is estimated that the USA has over 250 million cars and trucks plying the roads and sophisticated interstate network either for work, play and adventure. It is this ‘mythical romance’ attributed to the American highway system that brought us back to our wish list of exploring America by car. So when a planned surprise visit to our son in Vancouver didn’t happen, my Yankeephile husband thought it wasn’t a big deal. We would still go to North America and explore the region that is considered one of the most beautiful in the USA and the world… and this time, by car. The drive would roughly cover the Colorado Plateaus, which is actually the physiographic province that comprises southwestern United States, the southeastern half of Utah, the extreme western and southwestern parts of Colorado, northwestern New Mexico, and the northern half of Arizona.

The Colorado Plateau

a large and uplifted region covering areas of Central Utah, Northern Arizona and parts of Colorado and New Mexico.

It was the perfect excuse to realise his ‘wish’ to hire and drive the quintessential American Cadillac. With this in mind we flew to LAX then on to Las Vegas where we spent a couple of days to get over the jet lag, re-visit ‘ The Strip’ and pick up the hired caddy. It was also a chance to check out Rick Harrison and his mates at the world famous Gold and Silver Pawnshop, located in the ‘seedy’ side of town.

Gold and Silver Pawnshop Las Vegas

Rick Harrison ( wax) at the Gold and Silver Pawnshop

Gold andSilver Pawnshop Las Vegas

Rick (the wax) and Bob at the Gold and Silver Pawnshop

Las Vegas in the Mojave Desert is the most populous city in Nevada with 583,756 inhabitants. Vegas is known though for its glitzy ‘strip’, gambling casinos and resorts. In 2015, it welcomed 42,312,216 visitors, 16% of which were from overseas and reported gambling revenue of US$6.3 Billion. Impressive? Perhaps, but a few months before our visit to Las Vegas, we were in Macau, also known as the Las Vegas of Asia. This small peninsula in China reported gambling revenue of 360 billion patacas or US$45 billion in the year 2013. This clearly makes this tiny enclave in the Chinese territories the undisputed winner in the gambling industry. More recently though, there was a dramatic decline in earnings due to a crackdown from the Chinese government on corruption associated with the industry and a ban on smoking in the casinos. But back to Vegas…

We took our sons to see the Grand Canyon when they were young in tandem with stops in LA to visit family and Disneyland. Las Vegas was our base enroute to attractions nearby. At the time, we witnessed the makeover of the city to be equally family friendly and not just a destination for conventions, gambling and all sorts of hedonistic pursuits associated with gambling. Back then ‘The Strip’ was already interesting, its bright neon lights providing an aura of glamour and magic to visitors who wandered around.

The Strip

The Strip, Las Vegas

The Strip Las Vegas

The older hotels and casinos in Las Vegas

Bellagio, Las Vegas

The dancing water fountains Bellagio, Las Vegas

Magic in Las Vegas

‘Magic’ on sidewalk at The Strip, Las Vegas

The Strip, Las Vegas

The Strip, Las Vegas

For this visit without kids, we explored the newer hotels and resorts that have mushroomed through the years. Over the 2 evenings, we delighted ourselves with the bright lights along ‘The Strip’ and sampled a few of Las Vegas’ bars and restaurants. Like most destinations that rely on tourists’ dollars, cuisine from all over the world was available and cocktails of various influences aplenty. While we had no gastronomic expectations on this road trip, we thoroughly enjoyed the meals in Vegas.

international cuisine

gourmet sushi meal in Las Vegas

On our third day in America and having regained our equilibrium, it was time to leave Las Vegas and pick the infamous ‘Caddy’ on my husband’s ‘bucket list.’ We had a schedule to follow for the next 12 days. Roughly we were to follow this route, encompassing what many refer to as the Grand Circle and beyond:
Las Vegas to Valley of Fire to Zion Park to Kanab(our base for 4 nights) where we were to explore Bryce Canyon, North Rim Grand Canyon Coral Sand Dunes, Grand Escalante; and then move on to Lake Powell ( Page, Arizona), Monument Valley, Bluff, Cortez-Mesa Verde , Santa Fe, Flagstaff for the South Grand Canyon and Sedona. The last leg was to slowly drive back to California to visit family. This ‘road trip’ would roughly cover almost 2,000 miles.

Roadtrip to discover the American Southwest encompassing the Colorado Plateau

Roadtrip to discover the American Southwest encompassing the Colorado Plateau

In mapping out this itinerary, we were really keen to see Lake Powell and Horseshoe Bend in East Grand Canyon. Inspired by Stephen Fry (British actor, writer, comic, author and TV host) we wanted to visit and explore what he called the True West; episode 5 of the six part BBC series ‘ Stephen Fry in America’. This fascinating 2008 program in which he travelled all 50 states of America driving his black London Cab featured the magnificent mesas and buttes of Arizona and New Mexico and the spectacular beauty of Lake Powell. The series by the way is so interesting; it should be compulsory viewing for both American and non- American audience.

Our rented Cadillac was not as exotic as Fry’s London Cab but my husband couldn’t wait to try out his rented ‘toy’. As soon as we were satisfied that the GPS and everything else in the Cadillac worked, we hit the road using route I-15 N to make our way to our first stop, the Valley of Fire State Park about 50 miles (80 km) northeast of Las Vegas. Considered the oldest state park in Nevada, USA, Valley of Fire covers an area of about 36,000 acres of red and crimson sand and rocks.

Black Caddy

Black Caddy

On arrival, the sight of red sandstone formations, rocks of various shapes and sizes, greeted us. Over 150 million years ago, Mother Nature crafted the odd shaped rock formations through a shift in the earth’s crust, faulting and also effect of erosion by wind and water. It was a virtual ‘sea of red’ of fossilised sandstone and sand dunes in the middle of the dessert interrupted only by vegetation of cactus, yucca, mesquite tree, prickly pear and beaver tail.

Valley of Fire, Nevada

Valley of Fire, Nevada

Valley of Fire, Nevada

Valley of Fire, Nevada

From Valley of Fire, we continued northeast to southwestern Utah and stopped at the town of Springdale within the Zion Park. This Utah Park formed 250 million years ago is right along the edge of the Colorado Plateau. Armed with a map and information obtained from the Visitor Centre (located at the South entrance of the park in Springdale) we hopped on the free shuttle in Springdale for a drive up Zion Canyon and to catch glimpses of the park’s highlights. Zion Park is accessible to many visitors and attracts approximately 3 million visitors each year.

Zion Park, Utah

Zion Park, Utah

Zion Park, Utah

Zion Park, Utah

on our way to Kanab from Zion Park, Utah

on our way to Kanab from Zion Park, Utah

Zion Park, Utah

Zion Park, Utah

To Kanab from Zion Park, Utah

To Kanab from Zion Park, Utah

The breath taking natural beauty of the 2 parks we just visited was a refreshing change to the bright lights of Las Vegas. Soaking in the wondrous splendour of these geological formations, we slowly drove to Kanab where we stayed for four nights. Kanab is the ideal base for those who want to explore southhwestern America’s park heartland due to its central location to major places of interest. On our ‘must see’ list nearby were the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park (very close to Kanab), Zion Park of course, and the Vermillon Cliffs National Monument( in Arizona but so close to Kanab and located south of the Utah and Arizona border). After the four-day stop, we would make our way to Page and Lake Powell.

Kanab is centrally located and an ideal base to visit and explore Zion Park, Bryce, North Rim Grand Canyon and Lake Powell

Kanab is centrally located and an ideal base to visit and explore Zion Park, Bryce, North Rim Grand Canyon and Lake Powell

Kanab is situated on the western Colorado Plateau in the county seat of Kane in South Utah, just north of the Arizona border. Long before the Mormons came, Native Americans settled Kanab for thousands of years. Then in 1776, the Spanish explorers led by Franciscan missionary Silvestre ‘lez de Escalante discovered the region. About 100 years later, the Mormon pioneers followed the Spaniards in waves of migration between 1850 and 1870. However, the more interesting transient occupants were from tinsel town. In the early 1920’s, 40’s and 50’s, location scouters of Hollywood favoured the authentic natural Western Frontier setting of the Kanab area for Western movies. Consequently, more than 100 movies and TV shows were filmed in Kanab with the likes of John Wayne starring on ‘Stagecoach’ , Robert Taylor in ‘Billy the Kid’, Clint Eastwood in The ‘Outlaw Josey Wales’ and many more, filming in the region thus making Kanab earn the moniker of ‘Little Hollywood’ .

Driving all day works up quite a thirst. On arrival at our lodging, the first thing we were hankering for was a nice cold alcoholic beverage. Knowing my husband’s ‘cocktail hour’ habit, I knew he was looking forward to a cold drink. “A cold beer would really go down well” …he would say; but surprise, surpise! Not a bar or pub as we know it in Australia was in sight. Our friendly hotel receptionist informed us that liquor laws in the state of Utah is a bit different from the rest of America. We later found out that this was an understatement. In fact the liquor law in Utah is quite restricted…to say the least. It is, in our opinion, heavily regulated and a bit complex. It sets a limit of 3.2 percent alcohol by weight (4 percent by volume) in beer sold at supermarkets or convenience stores and higher alcohol content beer are only available in bottles or something to that effect. Cocktails also have a pre-determined limit to the proportion and amount of alcohol that can be used with mixers while all types of liquor including wine and strong beer can be purchased only at state run stores that have very limited trading times. One can have alcoholic beverages at restaurants that have licenses to serve these drinks but food must be on the table first. By the time we worked out how and where we could have our aperitif, we gave up on the ‘pub search’ and headed straight to the restaurant recommended by everyone to try; the Rocking V Café . This was a pleasant dining experience despite the wait for our wine and beer (remember we had to have the meal on the table first). As I said, we designed this trip to discover the natural beauty of south-western America and didn’t harbour exigent culinary standards but some of the restaurants specially the Rocking V Café were satisfying discoveries. For four evenings, we tried some of the eclectic mix of dining establishments at Kanab. Mexican at Escobar’s ( NO Margaritas and tequilas though to my dismay) Chinese at Luo’s Café and in fact on our last evening in Kanab, we uncovered a ‘western themed’ saloon restaurant with a full service bar. Their unique selling proposition (USP)? “ Iron Horse Restaurant and Saloon- Kanab’s only full service bar where you can drink without having to eat. “ Now, why didn’t we find this place earlier on?

On our stroll back to the lodge, we saw an outdoor advertising billboard for family dining with a message that said:
“Were history and culture meet ” …

Let’s see if you can spot the error.

The next day, after a full breakfast at the rustic and well-situated Canyons Lodge, we drove off and made our way to Bryce Canyon National Park.

USA

Discovering Gods country by train boat plane and an awesome road trip

A person who is fond of France, or has a great affinity to things French is called a Francophile. So what does one call a person who loves the USA and everything Americana? Perhaps a word has not yet been officially coined but it seems that Yankeephile or Yancophile followed by Americanophile are the top most Google searched word for this.

Regardless of what is acceptable, either one of these words is what I would call my husband. His fondness for America,this beautiful and vast country started when as a child, he lived in San Francisco with his parents and spent considerable time with the locals. Since then over the years, trips to the West Coast of America to visit relatives and friends or feeble excuses of ‘business trips’ to New York were not unheard of. His interest in America centres on food; specifically ribs and cherry pie. And there is also the quintessential 50’s icon… ‘Elvis the king’ and his music. Among many other things are his obsession of American cars, with America’s luxury car the Cadillac (caddy for short) and Mustang heading the list.

Soon after our sons ‘flew the coop’, we decided to re-visit our list of globe trotting adventures. Between us, the joke was to do as much as we possibly can… while we can. Getting into the spirit of travel, the ‘inner foodie’ in us also wanted to infuse our intended nomadic adventures with food… to taste and eat our way through every destination we visit, so to speak. And so, when Qantas announced the launch of their non-stop Sydney to Dallas route which is a 13, 804 km distance between Sydney and Dallas Fort Worth, and almost 16-hours of non stop flying, we were tempted. Despite the fact that this route is considered to be the world’s longest flying distance, landing somewhere near the centre of America was appealing in the sense that Dallas was going to be an efficient connecting point to any part of the United Sates. Yankeephile won over common sense and the distance didn’t deter us from taking advantage of the specials Qantas had on offer. With no particular American destination in mind we booked our Qantas return tickets allowing a month to explore good ole United States of America.

How do we fill in a month in the heart of America? Well, considering Dallas Fort Worth is the major hub for American Airlines we figured connecting to many destinations within the USA was not going to be a problem. Furthermore, if flying in and out of cities in America wasn’t going to work, there is always Amtrak, the passenger train service partially owned by the government with the (US) National Railroad Passenger Corporation. Having just experienced once more the fun of train travel across northern Spain, my husband, an avid train traveller wanted to try out America’s train service. Mindful of the decline in popularity and numbers of train travel in the USA since the latter part of the 20th century, (partially due to the car or auto cult that has taken over American’s mode of travel), we were curious about what Amtrak had to offer. We wanted to see America without worrying too much about speed limits and driving on ‘the other side’ of the road. Plus… the idea of zipping across various destinations by plane and having to go through the necessary stringent security controls at US airports turned us off plane travel within the USA completely.

Amtrak has over 500 destinations within 46 states in the USA and 3 provinces in Canada. It covers 34,000 km of track with 300 plus trains operating each day. Surely, with the time we have, we should be able to see more of America than we ever had during our past visits?

One service we always wanted to try is the California Zephyr between Chicago, Illinois and Emeryville, California ( close to San Francisco). California Zephyr goes through Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado Utah and Nevada. Considered one of the prettiest and scenic Amtrak routes, it covers a total of 3,924 km as it goes through the plains and valleys of mid-America and climbs through the Rocky mountains and the Sierra Nevadas( also called Sierra Nevada). The scenery should be stunning to say the least.

Undaunted by the mixed feedback on Amtrak trains we sought the advice of Vacations by Rail USA, one of America’s train travel experts. Being looked after by Efi of Vacations by Rail made planning this trip so easy. Not only did she propose an itinerary that was adventurous and fun but it also allowed us to explore America at a very leisurely pace, in comfort and value for money. They call it a customised Amtrak Independent package. Vacations by Rail took over where Qantas left us at Dallas Forth Worth international airport. They booked all our hotels and train routes to make our first train adventure in America an experience to talk about and remember.

Amtrak

Horseshoe  Bend

Lake Powell and Horseshoe Bend- Grand Canyon East

Only in America! …Snow one day and a drive through the middle of the desert the next. We regretfully left Kanab and the surrounding national parks to make our way to Page in Arizona for our 2-day stay at Lake Powell Resorts. British actor, writer and comedian Stephen Fry’s TV series ‘Stephen Fry in America’ was the catalyst for our Southwest USA road trip and check out the lesser known attractions of Lake Powell. But instead of taking the shorter route from Kanab to Lake Powell via highway 89, we drove further down past Fredonia and took highway Alt 89, a scenic and pleasant drive through the desert.

Kanab is centrally located and an ideal base to visit and explore Zion Park, Bryce, North Rim Grand Canyon and Lake Powell

Kanab is centrally located and an ideal base to visit and explore Zion Park, Bryce, North Rim Grand Canyon and Lake Powell

Going the longer way (Alt 89 is 117 miles and about 3 hours from Kanab) there were no vehicles on the road for miles and miles. My husband wanted to play with his rented ‘Caddy’ and tested it at 100mph (but only for a few miles, just in case the highway patrol was actually lurking behind the buttes and cliffs, waiting to catch some reckless driver). This route also gave us a chance to stop and have a closer look at the Vermillion Cliffs, Marble Canyon and the Navajo bridge. We stopped only for a few minutes because time was actually a factor. We wanted to be at Horseshoe Bend Overlook before it was too hot. (Horseshoe Bend is in the east side of the ‘Grand Canyon complex’ and just 7 miles before the beginning of the Grand Canyon). We were also ‘thirsty’. A week of no bar or pub in Utah can be a very long time! Arizona was a very attractive proposition.

Even though the trip took an hour longer , we didn’t regret taking this route because we saw so much of the rugged and arid beauty of the immense desert area of the Colorado Plateau. The scenery still took our breath away even after a week of being indulged with a range of exquisite landforms and fantastically carved canyons. Entertained by our satellite radio* I was more content with the landscape of the desert than the ‘sound of music’. We stopped to take images of the different shades of red in the dirt and rock, from rust to vermillion to a sandy pink; the scrub brush that wasn’t quite green and the wild desert plants. Red-hued mesas and sheer rock walls rose up steeply, some of it were lime and silvery, a striking contrast against the monochromatic tones of the earth. The desert sounds had also been different. The eerily quiet was interrupted only by bees and other insects humming.

*(to keep the peace between my husband and me, we rotated our favourite stations and genres of music every hour. Not just Elvis and Frank for him but the Motown sound, Bossa Nova, Earth Wind and Fire and One Republic for me)

sclerocactus flower

sclerocactus flower

different shades of red in the dirt and rock, from rust to vermillion to a sandy pink; the scrub brush that wasn’t quite green

different shades of red in the dirt and rock, from rust to vermillion to a sandy pink; the scrub brush that wasn’t quite green

rugged and arid beauty of the desert

rugged and arid beauty of the desert

scrub brush that wasn’t quite so green

scrub brush that wasn’t quite so green

Just off highway 89, on the turnoff is a parking area that leads to one of the most photographed sights in southwest USA, Horseshoe Bend. It’s only a ¾ mile hike to get there from the car park area but on a day when the sun is blazing hot, this short distance will seem a lot longer than what it actually is. So our tip for those who want to experience Horseshoe Bend is to go there early in the day. Also take water, wear a hat and slop on some sunscreen. If you can choose the time of year, maybe make your trip in spring or autumn and not during the height of summer.

Following a few eager stragglers, we finally reached the top of the hill to the Horseshoe Bend Overlook (where the Colorado River curves around by 270 degrees, shaped like a horseshoe hence the name) and what a sight to behold! Drawing in a quick breath at the sudden unexpected and spectacular view, we were somewhat perturbed by the adventurous youngsters as they scrambled up and took photos right on the edge of the ledge where the Colorado River on the background was better seen. Made my heart stop! They obviously couldn’t see the danger. Despite signs everywhere no one paid attention. Thankfully, nothing dramatic happened.

spectacular scenery

spectacular scenery

heed the warning

heed the warning

Being at Horseshoe Bend Overlook was one moment when I wished I had a pro- camera, complete with tripod and wide-angle lenses. It was an unbelievable sight and once again thanked my lucky stars we made it to this part of the Grand Canyon. Irrespective of our wariness of heights, (the Colorado River is a drop of 1,000 ft. from the rim of the cliffs) we looked down and took some images of this marvellous scene. We could actually spot a tiny speck on the water, a speedboat cruising on the river. As the day warmed, the reptiles began to stir.

boat on the river could be spotted from our vantage point

boat on the river could be spotted from our vantage point

Lizard on Rock

Lizard on Rock

We saw a brown lizard dart into a crevice as we approached and headed back to our ‘caddy’ eager to discover the Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell Resort. Prior to this road trip, we knew little of Horseshoe Bend and Lake Powell so we were really thrilled!

breathtaking view looking down - Horseshoe Bend

breathtaking view looking down – Horseshoe Bend

The Glen Canyon is part of the natural canyons complex carved by the Colorado River but the necessity to provide water and power to the southwest (California, Arizona, Nevada, and parts of Mexico) meant it was inevitable to dam the Colorado River. The environmentalists were not too happy about this but the project went through nevertheless and Glen Canyon Dam was built and then completed in 1963. The result was the creation of almost 2000 miles of shorelines that is now the Lake Powell Reservoir with most of the Glen Canyon complex (about 96 of canyons) submerged in water. Stretching 186 miles across the crimson desert, rocks, buttes and canyons from Page, Arizona all the way to Hite, Utah, the reservoir has a storage capacity of 27,000,000 acre feet. This makes it one of the largest man-made reservoirs in the USA, second only to Lake Mead, formed by Hoover Dam near Las Vegas in the states of Nevada and Arizona.

Glen Canyon Dam from Marble Canyon

Glen Canyon Dam from Marble Canyon

Glen Canyon Dam was completed in 1963

Glen Canyon Dam was completed in 1963

Finally, it was time to go to Lake Powell Resorts where we booked accommodation for 2 nights. In episode 5 of the BBC series of ‘Stephen Fry in America’ Lake Powell was shown in its most scenic. But being there, seeing the impressive views was even better than TV. Miles and miles of water interrupted by red rocks and sandstone was the backdrop of our resort. The view was stunning!

Lake Powell Resorts view

Lake Powell Resorts view

The hidden secrets of Lake Powell were made accessible by boat. Before we departed for this trip, we booked the Antelope boat cruise online for late that afternoon, a very good move because it was quite a busy weekend at the resort. We wanted to uncover the reasons why Lake Powell Reservoir is now considered a destination for avid kayakers, bass anglers, photographers and a vacation paradise for those who like houseboats. The cruise took us to see the 10 mile stretch of Antelope Canyon, known for its slot canyon. Unfortunately for this excursion it wasn’t possible to get to the slot canyon, as it is actually located in the upper Antelope canyon. To experience the much photographed slot canyon, a Navajo guide is required and can be organised in Page Arizona, near Lake Powell, (Address: 55 S. Lake Powell Blvd. Page, Arizona 86040, phone number + 1- 928-645-5594)

The hidden secrets of Lake Powell

The hidden secrets of Lake Powell

solid rock and stones and the high walled Navajo sandstone

solid rock and stones and the high walled Navajo sandstone

sandstone and canyons made for a fascinating setting

sandstone and canyons made for a fascinating setting

What we saw close up on our boat however was miles and miles of solid rock and stones and the high walled Navajo sandstone. On the way to this stretch of geological wonder was also a closer view of the Glen Canyon Dam.

There is something seductive about the water and the boat cruise was a reminder of this. We happily ended our long day of driving through the desert with a cruise on the calm waters of Lake Powell, followed by a stop at the Driftwood Lounge of Lake Powell Resorts for a delicious cocktail (our favourite classic Margarita). The good news was, Lake Powell Reservoir is both in Arizona and Utah but our hotel was in the Arizona side so restrictive Utah law towards alcohol consumption didn’t apply.

Dinner at the Rainbow Room at the resort didn’t disappoint either. Cheers…

Dinner at the Rainbow Room Lake Powell Resorts

Dinner at the Rainbow Room Lake Powell Resorts

The next day, to satisfy my husband’s interest in boats, we explored the resort’s surrounds and Wahweap Marina. Lake Powell Resorts manages 5 marinas where recreational boats and houseboats and other marina services are provided. We were driven down to the marina by one of Lake Powell Resort’s buggy cart. The driver was a fountain of information and for his efforts, earned a nice gratuity from my husband. (Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas, is managed by Aramark,
an authorized concessioner of the National Park Service, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.)

Wahweap Marina Lake Powell Resorts

Wahweap Marina Lake Powell Resorts

Soon it was time for another excursion, once again by boat to the isolated canyons below the Navajo Mountain where the Rainbow Bridge is located. Known to be the world’s largest natural bridge, this geological wonder carved by water over millions of years is managed by the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area in southern Utah, USA. It is sacred to the Native Americans who live in the area.

One can only get to Rainbow Bridge by boat or if interested in hiking, a permit must be obtained from the Navajo Nation.

We took the easy and scenic way to get to Rainbow Bridge, which is about 50 miles from Wahweap Marina at Lake Powell Resorts. We also booked this cruise online , ahead of our departure to the USA as it is a very popular cruise. The entire excursion would take about 4 hours round trip. As far as I was concerned, time was not an issue as getting to our destination was relaxing and so interesting. Passing through Warm Creek Bay we saw sandy beaches and coves. The day was glorious and not a cloud in the sky; clear blue waters of the lake and the surrounding red rocks, sandstone and canyons made for a fascinating setting. The guide told us that some scenes from the 1968 film ‘Planet of the Apes’ starring Charlton Heston were filmed here. The isolation and barren landscape does make one think of another planet and I could see why they chose this location for the movie.

The boat cruise provided a supply of bottled water and refreshments, but prior to arrival at the dock for our trek to Rainbow Bridge, we were urged to use the facilities, as there are no toilets at the site. To get to Rainbow Bridge, we had to hike for about 1.5 miles from the dock, across a trail of red dirt. It wasn’t really an easy stroll down the park so our advice is to wear a hat, sunglasses, take bottled water and ease your way slowly to the destination.

As we slogged along, coming closer to the site, we could see the arch of the bridge. It stands 290 feet (88 m) high and has a span of 275′ across. Made of sandstone, wind and water sculpted this magnificent structure over millions of years towards the end of the Triassic and Jurassic periods. It is so tall that the Statue of Liberty would be able to fit under its arch. The Puebloans (an ancient Native American culture) and other indigenous people occupied this area long ago and in more recent times, people of the Navajo, Southern Paiute, San Juan, Ute, Kaibab Paiute, White Mesa Ute, and Hopi tribes use the surrounding land. They named the bridge Nonnezoshe or “rainbow turned to stone.”

By the time we neared the bridge, the sun was blazing hot and despite the occasional cool breeze, the trek was difficult for most of us.

hiking slowly towards Rainbow Bridge

hiking slowly towards Rainbow Bridge

However, the magical scenery took our minds of our discomfort and being at an isolated, ‘sacred’ and unique geological site was a privilege.

Sacred site- Rainbow Bridge

Sacred site- Rainbow Bridge

Sacred Rainbow Bridge

Sacred Rainbow Bridge

Rainbow Bridge isso tall that the Statue of Liberty would be able to fit under its arch

Rainbow Bridge isso tall that the Statue of Liberty would be able to fit under its arch

The ultimate reward of seeing the bridge as well as the dinosaur tracks nearby was well worth the effort.

fossilised dinosaur tracks at Rainbow Bridge

fossilised dinosaur tracks at Rainbow Bridge

After a short exploration along the Rainbow Bridge National Monument, we made our way back to the boat and looked forward to a stop at Dangling Rope Marina, a mid-lake marina only accessible by boat.

The end of our short stay at Lake Powell was celebrated with a delicious and delightful meal once again at the Rainbow Room restaurant with views of the lake. We were fortunate to have been looked after by a gentleman who loved being a waiter. All his adult life he lived on a Winnebago and followed the availability of hospitality jobs on a seasonal basis; Aspen in winter, Lake Powell and other resorts for the rest of the year. Other than the Europeans who regard a job as ‘servers’ or waiters as an important career, it was refreshing to meet an American who took pride in his vocation. Needless to say, service was tops!

 

dining at Rainbow Room Lake Powell Resorts

dining at Rainbow Room Lake Powell Resorts

delicious meal at Rainbow Room Lake Powell Resorts

delicious meal at Rainbow Room Lake Powell Resorts

From Lake Powell, our next destination moving on was Monument Valley on the Arizona- Utah border.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bryce Canyon National Park and the North Rim of Grand Canyon

We were looking forward to our day of excursion at Bryce Canyon- a misnomer, because in fact Bryce Canyon is not a canyon at all. It is a vast spread of reserve covering an area of 145 km² (14,500 hectares or 35,835 acres) of distinctive rock formations, specifically the spiral shaped hoodoos, fluted walls, sculptured pinnacles, lookouts, forests and valleys. Through the millions of years, weather had landscaped, carved and created this wild but strikingly scenic park. The surrounds were not entirely just rock formations. In fact, the higher altitude of Bryce Canyon receives more rainfall than the surrounding desert so it wasn’t a surprise to see different varieties of pines like Douglas fir, Limber pine and Bristlecone pine as well as a great assortment of wild flowers and shrubs. The lower and drier levels of the park hosted varieties of plants such as cactus and yucca. Bryce is also the natural habitat of more than 50 species of wildlife such as elks, gray foxes, mountain lions, mule deer, the difficult to spot black bears and many more plus a throng of different bird species including the raven.

Hoodoos rock formation at Bryce Canyon

Hoodoos rock formation at Bryce Canyon

Use your imagination- Hoodoo at Bryce Canyon

Use your imagination- Hoodoo at Bryce Canyon

Vast parkland, Bryce Canyon

Vast parkland, Bryce Canyon

Just a handy tip; it’s always good to start early to avoid the long queues and to enjoy the full day at the park. We left Kanab as soon as we had our breakfast to get there right after their opening at 8 a.m. The drive north via highway 63 took only 90 minutes and even though it was a bit foggy when we left, the sun broke through the clouds and beamed down on us as we set out to find our way. It’s always good to plan ahead and get the current information about opening hours, weather conditions and the like. Our first stop was the Visitor Centre where we obtained information about the free shuttle bus services. For us, this was the most efficient way of seeing the highlights of the reserve as it allowed us to stop and take photos of the various points and places of interest. Gorgeous weather and gorgeous sights. The highlight for me would have been the Bryce amphitheater, situated between Sunrise Point and Sunset Point on the Rim Trail. Sunrise Point is the perfect spot to see an unobstructed view of the canyon amphitheatre.

arches formed by erosion millions of years ago- Bryce Canyon

arches formed by erosion millions of years ago- Bryce Canyon

Different shades of rust-Bryce Canyon

Different shades of rust-Bryce Canyon

At the end of the day, we thought that so far this national park, settled by Mormon pioneers in the 1850’s, named after homesteader Ebenezer Bryce and visited by over one million each year was so extraordinarily beautiful and as the story goes, Bryce described this vast reserve as “a hell of a place to lose a cow”.

"one hell of a place to lose a cow" - vast expanse of Bryce Canyon

“one hell of a place to lose a cow” – vast expanse of Bryce Canyon

as far as the eye can see from Sunrise Point and Sunset Point on the Rim Trail at Bryce Canyon National Park

as far as the eye can see from Sunrise Point and Sunset Point on the Rim Trail at Bryce Canyon National Park

The north to south drive back to Kanab was leisurely via highway 63 to take in closer views of the Grand Staircase Escalante, and the pink cliffs. Earlier on from Farview Point at Bryce National Park majestic sceneries of the natural bridge and other formations including those in Yuvimpa Point and the hoodoos at Agua Canyon were a medley of different shades of red, represented in the dirt and rock, from rust to vermillion to a sandy pink. Just gorgeous!

caves at Kanab

caves at Kanab

Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

The next day, we had the North Rim Grand Canyon on our agenda. When we planned this road trip, we wanted to see the Grand Canyon from the north, the east and the south. We already had been to the west entrance coming from Las Vegas when we took our sons to the USA many years ago. The north is less accessible than the south and the west vantages of the Grand Canyon and unless one is already in the vicinity of Arizona and south Utah, it is considerably remote. This is probably why it has fewer visitors per year (only 10% of the total Grand Canyon visitors per year) compared to the other three points. Our day trip to the north rim was much anticipated.
It would take 80 miles of driving south from our base in Kanab to get to the entrance of North Rim Grand Canyon. It was a very pleasant and scenic drive as our ‘caddy’ slowly drove through the Kaibab National Forest (elevation varied from 5,500 to 10,418 feet). The higher up we drove, we felt the drop in temperature at the same time. And as our car climbed up and up, at some point, we found ourselves driving through the snow. It was just breathtaking!

snow on the way to North Rim Grand Canyon

snow on the way to North Rim Grand Canyon

a lot of snow as we got closer to the entrance of the North Rim Grand Canyon

a lot of snow as we got closer to the entrance of the North Rim Grand Canyon

snow everywhere- gorgeous!

snow everywhere- gorgeous!

The North Rim Grand Canyon is closed for the winter but we planned our visit to coincide with the first day of the opening of the summer season in May. In fact, Grand Canyon North Rim’s season is short. From approximately mid-May (dependent on the snow fall and whether roads are passable) to mid- October, visitors who want to explore, hike, and camp in the park keep the rangers busy at the height of summer. Word of advice: Go early(just like the day trip to Bryce). When we reached our destination, there were only 12 cars lining up on the gate; on our way out, there would have been 200 plus in the queue waiting to get in!

first day of the spring/summer season and still snowing

first day of the spring/summer season and still snowing

Once inside the campground and parked, we headed for the Grand Canyon Lodge, built in the 1920’s and funded by the Utah Parks Company, a subsidiary of the Union Pacific Railroad. The lodge reminded me somehow of a scene in the movie based on Stephen King’s book ( made into a movie with Jack Nicholson) , ‘The Shining’. The Lodge however had a more friendly and cosy ambience, walls adorned with memorabilia from the era when it was built and fire blazing in the fireplace.

Grand Canyon Lodge, built in the 1920’s

Grand Canyon Lodge, built in the 1920’s

Brighty the Burro,'Hermit of Bright Angel Creek' Grand Lodge, North Rim Grand Canyon

Brighty the Burro,’Hermit of Bright Angel Creek’ Grand Lodge, North Rim Grand Canyon

Brighty - the Burro

Brighty – the Burro

We stood out on the veranda to take in the magnificent grandeur of the canyon, and tried to commit everything we saw to memory… peaks, plateaus and canyons of different hues of crimson, albeit sprinkled with snow.The north rim is elevated at 8827 ft., which is 1000 ft. higher in altitude than the south rim and about 10 degrees (Fahrenheit) cooler. Just as well we came prepared and were well rugged up. It was freezing (28 degrees Fahrenheit or -2 Celsius that day) and I also felt light headed*. It was a good excuse to go back indoors and into the warmth to peruse at the Grand Canyon Association bookstore and gift shop adjacent to the Lodge. The next stop was at the kiosk for a drink of hot chocolate with cream and marshmallows!

*( 8,000 ft is apparently the point when one feels symptoms of altitude sickness)

view from the Grand Lodge- North Rim Grand Canyon

view from the Grand Lodge- North Rim Grand Canyon

desolate and peaceful at the North Rim Grand Canyon

desolate and peaceful at the North Rim Grand Canyon

The visitation area of the North is smaller than South Grand Canyon with only three major viewpoints. Standing on the bluff, regardless of the low clouds interrupting the vista, somehow, I could see down the canyons and over the peaks. I really felt the quiet and wild beauty of this vast land, offering comfort in reflective moments like this one. Indeed, time was different here. The magnificence of the North Rim Grand Canyon is indescribable; so peaceful and sacred it almost made me cry.

awesome beauty of the Grand Canyon, so quiet and soothing

awesome beauty of the Grand Canyon, so quiet and soothing

taking in the undisturbed beauty of this magnificent canyon-North Rim Grand Canyon

taking in the undisturbed beauty of this magnificent canyon-North Rim Grand Canyon

On our way out from the Lodge, we drove to one of the three overlooks, ‘Point Imperial’ where, even with the snow we saw glimpses of the Painted Desert, Marble Canyon, and eastern Grand Canyon. It was one of those precious moments where I wished we had organised to stay longer and just soak in the magic that surrounded us. But it was not to be and soon we headed back to Kanab via the Coral Pink sand Dunes (between Mount Carmel Junction and Kanab)

views from the lookout-North Rim Grand Canyon

views from the lookout-North Rim Grand Canyon

Still overcome by the awesomeness of the North Rim Grand Canyon, we were delighted with the sight of the pink and coral coloured sand, littered with juniper and pinion pines. On our drive back to Kanab, we veered just off highway 89 to Coral Pink Sand Dunes. This park is popular with campers, picnickers because it has about 22 campground rests, modern service amenities and facilities. Those who want to use the Coral Pink Sand Dunes as their base camp can do so quite comfortably. We didn’t stay very long but managed to take some interesting images to remember.

Coral Pink Sand Dunes

Coral Pink Sand Dunes

The next day came too soon and it was time to pack up and continue our journey towards Monument Valley, Bluff and Canyon de Chelly.

Seabourn Quest- image courtesy of Seabourn

The Atlantic Coast Cruise on the Seabourn

Bar Harbor, Salem, Boston, Newport then Charleston, South Carolina and Fort Lauderdale, Florida

Many thanks to Seabourn for the aerial image of the Seabourn Quest by : Michel Verdure. Copyright Seabourn

The USA is one of our favourite destinations. Having visited the west coast numerous times, it was time to explore elsewhere. This time,we had the American Eastern seaboard and New England on our sights. Many travellers say that the east coast of America is at its best in autumn. It was a good excuse as any to see what the fuss is all about. To be honest, it was in fact a very good reason why we chose the Seabourn Atlantic Coast cruise to see this part of America.Having already experienced other cruises with the Seabourn in Northern Europe and the Baltic Sea, we were certain this voyage would be just as interesting and comfortable.

The cruise started in Montreal, then a stop in Quebec City and the rest of Canada’s eastern ports in the Atlantic Ocean. From St John New Brunswick in Canada, we reluctantly departed the beautiful and rugged Canadian Maritime Provinces and continued our journey on board the Seabourn Quest to head south along the eastern seaboard of America.

The next morning, we found ourselves anchored on Frenchman Bay in Bar Harbor Maine, the largest community in Mt Desert Island, home to Acadia national park and America’s millionaires’ row way back in the 19th century. From the deck, our first glimpse of Bar Harbor was a delightful scene to behold. Bar Harbor’s rock-strewn coastline, light houses, surrounding forest with beautiful autumn foliage of red, gold and orange hues, proved that autumn is indeed a good time to be in eastern USA. The sight that greeted us was spectacular.

Bar Harbor'srock-strewn coastline

Bar Harbor’srock-strewn coastline

Bar Harbor was New England’s premier summer resort in the 19th century

Bar Harbor was New England’s premier summer resort in the 19th century

Millionaire’s row of America dating back to the 19th century

Millionaire’s row of America dating back to the 19th century

We had a full day to explore the small town. There was so much to experience and we were told not to miss places such as the Acadia National Park, Thunder Hole, Jordan Pond House, the numerous islands on the Gulf of Maine and many more…but time was an issue. We instead chose to stroll through the quaint town to learn and appreciate why Bar Harbor was New England’s premier summer resort in the 19th century. Summer estates of America’s rich and famous – the Vanderbilts, Fords, Rockefellers you name it… were built in Bar Harbor. Although many of the palatial homes were burned down during a fire in 1947, there are still impressive houses along West Street.

shopping in Bar Harbor, Maine

shopping in Bar Harbor, Maine

If a visitor only had a day to visit, this walking map is a very useful guide to have. Shopping too was interesting. The bell shaped wind chime and warm jackets we purchased will always remind us of this gorgeous coastal town on Frenchman Bay.

Back on board the Seabourn Quest, we enjoyed the sunset from the Observation Bar (our favourite spot) where the bartender intuitively handed us our favourite cocktail- classic frozen margarita- the moment we walked in.
It was a great way to say goodbye to Bar Harbour, a place I wouldn’t mind going back to someday soon.

saying goodbye to Bar Harbor from the deck &watching the sunset

saying goodbye to Bar Harbor from the deck &watching the sunset

Some of the many things we like about the Seabourn are their open bars, the selection of fine wines and exceptional gourmet meals, designed to reflect the food and specialty of the destinations. The chef and his crew work on fresh ingredients sourced from the suppliers in the destinations where we anchor for the day. Sure enough, that evening, we dined sumptuously on lobsters and many other choices typical of New England fare. As always, the dining experience on the Seabourn was exquisite.

The Seabourn difference:All dining venues are complimentary, open bars and gourmet dining

The Seabourn difference:All dining venues are complimentary, open bars and gourmet dining

fresh seafood from our ports of call

fresh seafood from our ports of call

Food Glorious Food during the Seabourn Galley Day

Food Glorious Food during the Seabourn Galley Day

The next morning, we docked at Salem harbour, the very first of many cruise liners to do so. We had a quick glimpse of this small town in Massachusetts, known for the witchcraft trials in 1692 before boarding our tour bus to spend a day in Boston. Luckily, we were in Salem just days before the celebrated Halloween in America because this was very much in evidence in Salem. Although ‘witch’ themed walking tours are available all year round, we didn’t have time to go on one. However, as a consolation prize, from our bus, we were treated to sights of elaborate Halloween displays along the streets.

Within an hour, we arrived in Boston, capital of Massachusetts and the largest city of one of the oldest original colonies in the USA. It certainly is one of the most historic, where events leading to the American Revolution took place. Paul Revere’s midnight ride, the Boston Tea Party, Boston massacre, the siege of Boston…all these underline Boston’s historic significance.

We planned our day to include the Freedom Trail, the 4-kilometre path within the heart of downtown Boston and stopped at the 16 locations that had significance and connections to the American Revolution. Next was at another iconic place in Boston, the Faneuil Hall marketplace, set in a promenade of cobblestones. Entertained by street performers, we soaked in the ambience of this bustling meeting place despite the freezing cold wind. Adjacent were North and South markets and Quincy market where we sampled Boston’s famous clam chowder and potpies at ‘Boston Chowda’. We still had time to walk around the Back Bay area to see the controversial John Hancock Tower which stands790 feet high and the tallest building in Boston.

Statue of Paul Revere, Boston

Statue of Paul Revere, Boston

Beautiful Boston Public Garden, monuments, sculptures, close to Freedom Trail and the famous Hancock Tower

Beautiful Boston Public Garden, monuments, sculptures, close to Freedom Trail and the famous Hancock Tower

Our final excursion was to the Ivy League Harvard University in Cambridge Massachusetts, which was established in 1636 and named after its first benefactor, John Harvard. A quick walking tour to the notable landmarks made us appreciate why this influential and prestigious private university boasts of an endowment of USD 37.6 billion to date.

Harvard University, Cambridge Massachusetts

Harvard University, Cambridge Massachusetts

Harvard University campus, Cambridge Massachusetts

Harvard University campus, Cambridge Massachusetts

Excursion completed, most of us were eager to get back to our tour bus just to get away from the cold, freezing Boston weather. Personally, I was looking forward to a warm bath in the privacy of our suite on the Seabourn Quest followed by drinks at the Observation bar to wave goodbye to Salem and head down to Newport overnight. The locals and the media gave us a grand farewell as we started to sail away from the harbour of Salem. We were apparently the first cruise ship to dock in their port. The fireworks were an unexpected treat.

That evening we enjoyed another ‘regionally themed’ and sumptuous meal from the Seabourn’s galley; choices from the main dining room, the formal and intimate ‘Restaurant 2’, the cafe/bistro ambience of the Colonnade and even the casual Patio grill reflected the specialties of the places we called on. Delicious fresh seafood, fruit and vegetables was brought in daily ( except of course on sea days) to the ship.

The next port of call was Newport, Rhode Island, the ‘city by the sea’, its annual regattas and the America’s cup and last but not least, home of the massive summer mansions of the seriously wealthy industrialists. These were built in the 19th century during the ‘Gilded Age’ and became their playground. Newport was America’s first resort to the seriously wealthy, the likes of Cornelius Vanderbilt II, the Astors and Doris Duke. We anchored in the bay and were ferried across to the port. We were really looking forward to experience this resort town.

Rhode Island in fact plays an important role in America’s history, being one of the original 13 British colonies on the east coast of North America. It was the first British colony in America to formally declare its independence on May 4, 1776, although Newport itself was founded in 1639 by a group of first officers and English settlers. Because of its rich history there were many choices of things to do and see but given only a full day to see the sights, our priority was to visit a few of the 10 mansions owned and managed by ‘The Preservation Society of Newport County’ that used to belong to America’s well known magnates.

Stupendous, ostentatious and opulent came to mind when we did our tour of the mansions on Bellevue Avenue. The first one naturally was the grandest of them all; ‘ The Breakers ’ built in 1893 to 1895 at a cost of over 7 million dollars (equivalent to over $150 million today). This mansion was the summer cottage of Cornelius Vanderbilt II, favourite grandson of Commander Cornelius Vanderbilt, son of William Vanderbilt, the richest man in the world during his time. The Vanderbilts made their fortune on steamships and the New York Central railroad. Set on a 13 acre property, the 70 room mansion faces the ocean and is open daily except for Christmas and Thanksgiving Day.
For more information ,look up this link.

view from the terrace of The Breaker- Vanderbilt Mansion, Rhode Island

view from the terrace of The Breaker- Vanderbilt Mansion, Rhode Island

frontal view of The Breaker- Vanderbilt Mansion

frontal view of The Breaker- Vanderbilt Mansion

Having seen the places where the elite met to sleep and play, we went back to our own luxurious floating digs. It was a great day to remember and from this excursion alone, my husband and I now believe the trivia we once read that only 1% of America’s population own something like 40% of its assets. Hard to imagine but after seeing the mansions and imagining how the wealthy Americans lived, how can this not be true?

It took the Seabourn Quest two days at sea to reach the port of Charleston, South Carolina. A very good reason to enjoy the amenities on the Seabourn…a day at the Spa, a game of bridge, a session at the gym to work off the indulgences and last but not least, attend the informative lecture or ‘conversation’ nights from esteemed experts. The evenings in fact are never dull on the Seabourn. There are pre-dinner drinks at the deck where the casual dining Patio Grill is located or any bar venue of your choice. There are several options for dining and of course the entertainment right after dinner for those who want to party on.

a favourite for casual dining, Patio Grill, Seabourn

a favourite for casual dining, Patio Grill, Seabourn

Finally, we reached the port of Charleston and once again, we didn’t waste time. As soon as we were allowed to leave the ship, we set off. This port of call was how I imagined the oldest city in South Carolina to be. Think ‘Gone with the Wind’ and you will easily visualise the stately antebellum homes, plantations and beautifully maintained gardens, the cobblestoned streets, horse-drawn carriages in the French quarter and Battery street.

There was so much to see and explore in Charleston and thankfully we were given practically 14 hours to check out the places of interest. First up on our list was the tour to the Magnolia Gardens, Charleston’s most visited plantation. Founded in 1676 by the Drayton family, it was the Reverend John Drayton who turned the former cypress swamp into a lush garden that is now considered to be ‘America’s Last Large-scale Romantic-style Garden’. Only about 13 miles from downtown, the plantation is located on the Ashley River, across from North Charleston, South Carolina. On arrival, the first thing we did was to take a 45 minute guided stroll around the lush and beautifully maintained gardens with its variety of native plants and flowers such as Camellia, Hibiscus, Canna Lilies, Hydrangea, Impatiens and many more. Even in October there were so many species of flowers in bloom. The same family has owned the plantation for more than three centuries and with each generation, their own personal favourite plants have been added to the gardens. Whether one is a lover of plants and blooms, a garden enthusiast or an amateur botanist, it cannot be said that the Magnolia Gardens is ordinary. In fact we thought it was so beautiful and warranted the concept of ‘making you forget’ your worries in your day to day affairs…a notion associated with the creation of ‘romantic style gardens’.

We then hopped on the guided ‘nature train’ which lasted for 45 minutes. During this very interesting and informative tram tour around the Audubon Swamp Garden our guide pointed out all the wildlife including the alligators in their native habitats as well as the turtles, herons, egrets and many more who have made this planation their home in the south.

Magnolia Gardens, Charleston’s most visited plantation

Magnolia Gardens, Charleston’s most visited plantation

alligator basking in the sun, Audubon Swamp Garden, Charleston

alligator basking in the sun, Audubon Swamp Garden, Charleston

peacock and other bird species have made the Magnolia Gardens their home

peacock and other bird species have made the Magnolia Gardens their home

Finally, we made it to the stately Magnolia House, giving us a glimpse of what plantation life must have been like in the 19th century. The house features a collection of gorgeous early American antiques.

There was still plenty of time to see this elegant southern city so on our return back to Charleston we wandered about downtown. We strolled towards the bustling French Quarter and Battery areas to check out and admire the elegant townhouses built by wealthy planters and merchants in the 18th and 19th centuries.

typical colonial house seen in downtown Charleston, SC

typical colonial house seen in downtown Charleston, SC

Other historic landmarks that we were told not to miss included St Michael’s Episcopal Church, located at Broad and Meeting streets. Built between 1752 and 1761, it is known to be the oldest surviving religious structure in Charleston. Its bells have crossed the Atlantic seven times. There are quite a few churches of different denominations and because of this, Charleston has earned the moniker of ‘Holy City’.
Also of historic significance are the Old Exchange and the Provost Dungeon, (otherwise known as the Custom House) where the British held Revolutionary Prisoners captive during the Revolutionary War and Civil War. This beautiful building belies the fact that it was also where slaves and prisoners were chained to its dungeon walls, often sick with all kinds of horrible diseases.
Not to be missed is the Fireproof Building, also known as the County Records Building located at 100 Meeting Street. Built in 1827, it has the distinction of being designed by the same architect responsible for the Washington Monument. It is believed to be the oldest fire resistant building in America.

Finally, to end our day at Charleston we took a stroll through the Old City Market. This public market has been operational for more than 200 years. It occupies four city blocks from Market Street to East Bay Street. In its early days the market was a hub for farmers and plantation owners who sold their produce. It also served as a social place to catch up with friends and network with other merchants. When we were there the only disappointment was that most of the stalls were really geared up for tourists looking for souvenirs.

After going through the ‘must see’ list, we took our time to wander back to the ship, via the Battery promenade and Waterfront Park , both overlooking Charleston Harbour.

Charleston is indeed one of the most beautiful and historic cities in the American South and we appreciated the fact that we had all day to make a call on this town.

We then sailed forth towards Fort Lauderdale that evening and had another sumptuous selection of dishes inspired by the delicacies of South Carolina. On the menu that evening which I couldn’t resist were the shrimps and oysters. In South Carolina, oysters are aplenty from September and October, the months with the letter “R” in the name (much like the mud crab season in Queensland, Australia). This was really a decadent way to end our Seabourn Atlantic Coast Harbours cruise (from Montreal to Fort Lauderdale).

As they say, all good things must come to an end. The port of disembarkation of our glorious cruise was Fort Lauderdale . We arrived at the port early morning after spending another sea day from Charleston, South Carolina on the Seabourn Quest. The weather was just gorgeous; sunny yet with a cool, fresh crisp autumn breez and the sky was a vivid bright blue. My old school friend, now a resident of Fort Lauderdale met us and took us to our hotel. Sensing the need to spend time with a very dear friend whom I haven’t seen since high school days, my husband decided to venture downtown on his own. I on the other hand, spent quality time with Lani and reminisced many of the follies of our youth, over a typical Mexican inspired meal.

That evening, my husband and I discovered ‘Chart House’, just a few blocks away from our ocean front hotel, The Pelican Grand Beach Resort. This waterfront restaurant on 3000 Northeast 32nd Avenue, Fort Lauderdale Florida is also accessible by water taxis that ply through Fort Lauderdale’s canals. The menu boasts of creative seafood cuisine making use of local seafood catches. My husband had the Ahi tuna, grilled with olive oil and served with Furikake rice, wasabi cream & ginger soy and I couldn’t go past the Basil Citrus Grilled Mahi served with lemon scented sticky rice, green gazpacho relish, rich tomato coulis. Just delicious! Now I know why Ernst Hemingway loved Florida and would have wanted to go and visit his house in the Key West but we had planned to see Fort Lauderdale from the canals , via the water taxi, a fun and inexpensive way to explore the city.

Much like the hop on-hop off buses in big cities, the water taxis take you along the waterways, to see the millionaires’ row and places of interest along the waterfront. This experience makes one appreciate why Fort Lauderdale has been given- the name, ‘Venice of America’. We spent a good part of the day enjoying the sights and stopping for lunch at the 15th street Fisheries. We chose to have our late lunch at their ‘dockside,’ a casual dining experience where we could also see and enjoy the vista of many of the yachts, fishing vessels and other boats either sailing past or anchored. My husband had a mouth watering light meal of Lauderdale Lobster, a salad Roll of Maine lobster salad with celery and mayo and avocado served on a brioche hoagie, served with his choice of a side- French fries, what else. I had the most delicious fresh mahi-mahi tacos- grilled mahi-mahi meat with mango pico de gallo, fresh summer slaw (with lime juice), cilantro, guacamole and chipotle sour cream on warm grilled flour tortillas. Washed down with frozen margarita, what else can one wish for?
The unexpected treat and surprise for the day was the visit to Bahia Mar Marina where the International Boat Show was held. My husband who has a keen interest on boats and fishing was like a little boy let loose in Disneyland. With yachts like these ( see images) you can understand why. The Fort Lauderdale International boat show is an annual event.

Fort Lauderdale Florida, best seen from the water . We took a water taxi to explore

Fort Lauderdale Florida, best seen from the water . We took a water taxi to explore

one of the many palatial homes in Fort Lauderdale, Florida

one of the many palatial homes in Fort Lauderdale, Florida

the bonus was the Boat Show- so many magnificent boats on display, Fort Lauderdale, Florida

the bonus was the Boat Show- so many magnificent boats on display, Fort Lauderdale, Florida

On our last day, we rented a car on my friend’s advice and drove to Sawgrass Mills, home of outlet stores and a very popular destination for those wanting some retail therapy.

Here is some useful information:

Phone:
(954) 846-2300
Address:
12801 W Sunrise Blvd, 33323-4020
Nearby Cities:
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Miami, FL
Palm Beach, FL
Location:
20 minutes west of Fort Lauderdale, 40 minutes north of Miami, 40 minutes south of Palm Beach
Stores :
This mall has 151 outlet stores
Regular Hours:
Sun:11:00 am-8:00 pm
Mon – Sat:10:00 am-9:30 pm

We shopped for really well priced quality items and thought that the day was well spent.
That evening, we were too tired to go out for our dinner so we happily had our last meal in Florida at our hotel’s casual lunge bar/restaurant, the O2K lounge.

A perfect way to end our Atlantic Coast sojourn.

Jamón Ibérico

Food and Travel -The story of the Jamón Ibérico

San Sebastian

Food defines our travels…well almost. I mean, who doesn’t like tasting, savouring and indulging on food while getting to know a destination? In fact we think food and travel go hand in hand. Travel broadens the mind and food gives an insight to a country’s people. Food offers tantalising glimpses of its culture and history. To paraphrase a review on the book ‘Food is Culture’ by Massimo Montanari, everything there is about food embodies layers of different cultural significance of a place and its people. Food explores connections and is a unifier between what is eaten and through cross-cultural connections. It tells a great story of the evolution of a destination.
(Massimo Montanari is a Professor of Medieval History at Bologna University, and one of the world’s leading experts in Food studies)

Take Spain for instance. Historians say that life began as early as 32,000 years ago in the area we now known as Spain. Archaeological findings point to settlements on the Iberian Peninsula by Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians, while the Celts settled in the north as can still be seen in Galicia in northern Spain. In 218 BC the Romans came and shaped the culture and religion of Spain, its language and legal system. But then the Moors came along and banished the Christians. For nearly 800 years Hispania came under Muslim control. With the exception of northern Spain, Moorish Spain became known as Al-Andalus. Some historians consider this period a very interesting time inasmuch as they reason that the Moors (Arabs) added a layer of complexity to the Spanish culture. For example the much-loved Paella, one of Spain’s signature dishes is a Moorish legacy to Spain and the world. Rice, saffron and spices that dominate this ubiquitous Spanish dish tells a story of their occupation of Spain. We can also blame the Moors for the Spaniard’s sweet tooth considering the Arabs brought sugar to Spain and used in many of their dishes- not just for desserts but sugar is also evident in the confluence of savoury and sweet flavours in the same dish on some of their favoured meals such as escabeche or even the polvoron.

Christian Spain on the other hand also tells a tale of ham and pigs. It is common knowledge that Spain is the world’s largest producer and consumer of air-dried-cured ham. The Spaniards (per person) consume an average of five kilograms of cured ham per year. Now, that’s a lot of ham! Ham is so ingrained in the Spanish culture and daily meals that even a Spanish art-house film, an allegory for Spain itself and the many contrasts of Spain and the passionate Spaniards including their erotic desires and their reverence for food was given the title Jamón – Jamón. In the film, food was frequently used in puns and metaphors. I clearly recall the finale because of the bizarre twist with the male protagonists tangled in a duel using legs of ham for weapons.jamon iberico

The history of Spain is steeped in tradition and religion. The consumption of ham and pork has religious connotations too because during the Moorish period in Spain, there was a noticeable absence of ham and pork dishes as eating pork was prohibited because it was a religious taboo amongst the Moors. Then when the Christians regained control of Spain, the Muslims either had to convert to Christianity (and by inference, eat pork and ham I suppose) or flee. So, once again, pork regained its popularity and back in the menu. A very good reason for Spaniards to qualify as the world’s leading ham eater!

So you see, food does tell a very interesting story about a place, its people and culture. There are many more examples we can later discuss such as the fact that the French like to do their shopping daily, the regional flavours of Chinese food, the influence of food on people who have migrated to different countries…the list goes on and on.

More on: Railway to Heaven (On board the luxury train in Spain) ISBN: 9781468970203

Available at:  Barnes and Noble and Google Books

Ville de Québec

Québec and Eastern Canada- on board the Seabourn Quest

Feature image: Québec City Skyline
Copyright and credits: Ville de Québec

We set sail on board the Seabourn Quest from the port of Montreal on the St Lawrence River, Canada’s most important commercial waterway. This massive river was the route of earlier French and British explorers and the gateway to North America at the beginning of the 16th century. Seeing Montreal from the deck as we slowly sailed at dusk was a dreamlike experience. Montreal looked so pretty with twinkling lights from its historic and modern buildings and the autumn foliage dotting the landscape still visible in the soft glow of the setting sun.

Seabourn Quest
Our first port of call the next morning was Québec City in the province of Québec. Founded by French explorer Samuel de Champlain as a fur-trading base in 1608, Kebek in the language of the Hurons means “ the place where the river narrows”. (the Huron Indians were part of the Iroquoian people who were named Hurons by the French in the 17th century)
Set in one of the most stunning locations in North America , high up on Cap Diamant cliffs (Cape Diamond) and overlooking the St Lawrence River, Québec is Canada’s oldest and safest major city. We had a full day to discover this pretty and historic town, so quintessentially French. Its 400-year history is rich and exciting, palpable in its language, culture and old buildings.

The Seabourn Quest docked in the Vieux-Port de Québec (Old Port) right next to the historic city. Québec city is small and compact, about 7 square kilometres and therefore easy to explore on foot. It is divided into two parts; the Upper town (Haute Ville) and Lower town (Basse Ville).

As soon as we were allowed to disembark we promptly set off to discover this ‘European like’ city on foot with no itinerary in mind. We commenced our stroll from the pier and headed straight for the Upper Town, climbing the steep stairs that led to the top of the hill. It was a glorious autumn morning and the walk was invigorating. Admiring the view atop the hill overlooking the St Lawrence River below us and the Appalachians and Laurentian mountains to the south and north respectively, we reached Québec’s Fortifications, a defence system that surrounded Old Québec. It was built by the British two centuries ago and has earned Québec the distinction as North America’s only walled city north of Mexico. The fortifications surrounding Old Québec are close to 4.6 km in length enclosing three centuries of the city’s history, architecture and culture. This is one of the main reasons why UNESCO designated this area a world heritage site in 1985. Within the remains of the walls is a charming town with cobblestoned narrow streets littered with bistros, cafés and boutiques. The granite copper roofed houses, churches, parks and several museums and monuments speak volumes of the city’s interesting colonial past.

Dominating the quarter perched on top of Cape Diamond overlooking Dufferin Terrace and the St. Lawrence River is the iconic Chateau Frontenac (Le Château Frontenac). The Canadian and Pacific Railway built this grand and imposing building with its towers and spires reminiscent of France. It was actually conceived of in the 1800’s by William Van Horne, who was then the president of the Canadian Pacific Railway. He wanted to build castle like luxury hotels along the railway to entice discerning and well-heeled railway travellers to make these hotels their luxurious pied–à–terre. Le Château Frontenac was completed in 1892 and has hosted countless celebrities and royalty since then. A Fairmont hotel, the castle was named in honour of Louis de Buade, Compte de Frontenac who was governor of New France from 1672 to 1682 and 1689 to 1698.

Château Frontenac in Autumn Copyright and credits: Luc-Antoine Couturier

Château Frontenac in Autumn
Copyright and credits: Luc-Antoine Couturier

There are tours that begin at the Frontenac kiosk on Dufferin Terrace but we opted to do our own from the Dufferin Terrace to visit Artillery Park. We thought it interesting inasmuch as our walking exploration was a brief history lesson on the fight for supremacy between the British and the French. Of course we all know that the British ultimately gained control of this French colony but Québec city is unmistakably a reminder that the French were indeed its early occupants.

Dufferin Terrace and Château Frontenac Copyright and credits: Audet Photo/ Stephane Audet

Dufferin Terrace and Château Frontenac
Copyright and credits: Audet Photo/ Stephane Audet

Note: There is a tourism office Frontenac Kiosk, Dufferin Terrace that organises tours and sells guidebooks.

Frontenac

We continued our walk and headed down towards Quartier Petit-Champlain on the south edge of Old Québec. Known to be the oldest shopping district in North America, it was packed with little shops selling souvenirs, art galleries, antique shops and specialty boutiques.

Petit- Champlain Street at Christmas, Quartier Petit Champlain Copyright and credits: Ville de Québec

Petit- Champlain Street at Christmas, Quartier Petit Champlain
Copyright and credits: Ville de Québec

The narrow streets and sidewalk cafés crowded with tourists gave the neighbourhood a festive atmosphere. We ended our visit at the Place-Royale and at the square outside the Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church, the oldest stone church in North America (1688) where our attention was captured by the display of Halloween decorations, pumpkins of all sizes and the like. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to venture to the Musée de la Civilisation and only caught a glimpse of the Old Port public market. It was time to head back to our ship where we bid goodbye to this historic, quaint and charming Canadian city with a French twist.

Halloween display at the Square
 

Halloween display at the Square

Halloween display at the Sqaure

La Fresque des Québécois Copyright and Credits: Jean- François Bergeron, Enviro Photo

La Fresque des Québécois
Copyright and Credits: Jean- François Bergeron, Enviro Photo

After a day at sea indulging on the Seabourn’s luxuriously appointed facilities, we were looking forward to visiting the Eastern Canadian harbour towns and Maritime provinces. The first stop was Cap-Aux-Meules (Grindstone), one of the dozen or so islands that comprise the archipelago of La Madeleine. Despite the cold, gusty wind, we traipsed along the small fishing village admiring the beautiful desolated coastline and visited the church of St. Pierre at Laverniere. This wooden church was constructed from the wreckage of ships that ran aground or from some that were found submerged on the offshore ridges. One can imagine how frightening it must have been to get blown off course and sunk or lost at sea. The wrecks found in the deep around these islands tell a lot of stories that keep maritime archaeologists occupied. Now of course, a lighthouse stands at Cap-Aux-Meules to guide all types of ships (regardless of their sophisticated radars and GPS).

The cruise aimed to show us the breathtaking beauty of these parts of Canada. It also provided the travellers brief lessons in Canada’s maritime history. What was advantageous for us was the fact that it was an easy way to catch glimpses of the cluster of peninsulas and islands that form what is collectively known as the Canadian Maritime provinces, bordering the Atlantic Ocean. The Seaborn Quest took us to the town of Sydney in Nova Scotia affording us amazing views of the rugged coastline, hills and the picture perfect valleys of Nova Scotia and a day later to the busy port of St John, New Brunswick for a day of excursion.

At St John’s we acquainted ourselves with the many delights of this harbour town, notably the Market Square and the New Brunswick museum. The city is distinctly more British than French although about 30% of the population still speak Quebec French or français québécois. The highlight of our short excursion was witnessing a unique phenomenon known as the Reversing Rapids of New Brunswick, best seen from Reversing Falls Bridge. The reversing rapids are a result of the great rise and fall of the tides of the Bay of Fundy. The 28-foot tide change in the Bay of Fundy to the St. John’s River which flows right through town actually reverses direction for a few hours at high tide.

The Maritime Provinces of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island was the second region in Canada to be occupied by the Europeans after Newfoundland. Vikings were thought to have also settled there but the French still has the distinction of being ‘the colonisers’ of these parts of Canada. In fact it was known then as Acadie or Acadia. The British of course forcibly removed the Acadians during the French and Indian War in 1755–1764. Many fled to Louisiana USA while others were deported back to France.

We made our way towards the US eastern ports, sailing across the waters of the North Atlantic Ocean and southeast of Newfoundland on the North American continental shelf. Found in this area is a group of underwater plateaus known as Grand Banks. Discovered by the English explorer John Cabot during his transatlantic voyage in 1497, the Grand Banks turned out to be one of the richest fishing grounds in the world. Home to dolphins, whales, Atlantic cod, swordfish, haddock, capelin, scallops and lobsters, the waters were plundered and exploited by fishing vessels from Europe, Russia and South America. The consequence of 500 years of overfishing was devastating to the marine life. Due to this, the Canadian government declared a ‘moratorium ‘ on fishing in 1992. Unfortunately, this move resulted to an economic catastrophe for the Newfoundland northeastern Canadian fishing industry.

Food glorious food…Food on board the Seabourn never disappoints. Spoilt for choice, the traveller can choose to dine in any of the Seabourn’s several restaurants. Award-winning cuisines guaranteed to be made from fresh ingredients purchased in every port stop is a delight and a boon for passengers. Whether one has a hankering for fine dining or conversely, a laid back casual meal, the meticulously thought of menus designed by Seabourn chefs are regionally themed in all of it’s restaurants. The open bars serve a huge variety of very good wine and other alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. This particular cruise indulged the ‘inner foodie’ in us on the array of seafood from the waters of Newfoundland but my carnivore husband was not neglected, as the best quality meats were always sure to be tender, juicy and tasty.

Note: Saveur magazine (gourmet, food, wine, and travel magazine) recognised the Seabourn as the Best Culinary Cruise Line in 2013 and 2014 for their premier Culinary Travel Awards

One of the many appeals of experiencing the Seabourn Atlantic Coast Harbour Cruise was the ease of being transported from port to port in luxurious comfort and relative tranquility. No connecting ferries, trains or airplanes to worry about and most of all, the traveller gets to unpack and pack only once. In isolated locations that are otherwise difficult to reach like Eastern Canada, for us, the Seabourn Atlantic Coast Harbours was the way to go.

Many thanks to Québec City Tourism for allowing us to use professional images featured above.

6088G

Montreal

Feature Image: Mary Queen of the World Cathedral and 1000 de La Gauchetière/ Downtown
Credit : © Tourisme Montréal, Stéphan Poulin

It was the end of our sojourn in New York and time to depart for the ‘land at the top’. New York to Montreal is approximately 381 miles (613.6 km) and 11 hours on the train, not that far really. Ever since our first Amtrak train journey on the California Zephyr we had the Adirondack on our sights. Destination Montreal was the perfect excuse to board the Adirondack train from NYC Penn station, a daily service operated by Amtrak. Looking forward to simply taking our time to get to Montreal, we were content to take this 11 hour journey and indulge in the gradual change of scenery going north, along the Hudson River Valley to Albany and slowly up to Schenectady and Saratoga Springs, in the foothills of the Adirondack mountain range. Friends who have done this trip warned us of delays so we were pleasantly surprised it didn’t happen. However, we were somewhat disappointed that this much-touted scenic train route did not have the dramatic sceneries we saw while on the California Zephyr or the Rocky Mountaineer trains. Nevertheless, it was a delightful way to see the outskirts of New York and beyond plus the spectacular autumn foliage.

Montreal
Montreal
Montreal
Montreal

Montreal, the biggest city in Quebec province, certainly one of the most historic in North America, and the seat of bilingualism and culture in Canada was cold when we arrived in the evening. A sophisticated city juxtaposing distinct Franco features with Anglo characteristics, despite the rain and cold weather, Montreal stood with its bright lights, waiting to be explored.

I’ve always associated Montreal with the international jazz festival, Quebec French or Québécois French and the Québecoise (French-speaking native of Quebec) . The glorious food we have heard so much about at Au Pied de Cochon was another feature. Montreal is in fact more than these.

Festival International de Jazz de Montréal Credit : © Canadian Tourism Commission

Festival International de Jazz de Montréal
Credit : © Canadian Tourism Commission

Long before the Europeans settled in Montreal and Quebec, First Nations native people (aboriginal natives of Canada) the Hurons, Algonquins and Iroquois were its inhabitants. Sooner than later, seafaring European explorers reached the shores of eastern Canada. In 1535, French explorer Jacques Cartier came across a large settlement, called the Hochelaga (it is an Iroquoian fortified village) on the St Lawrence River and Stadacona, another fortified Iroquoian village near present day Quebec City. In a few decades, French navigator Samuel de Champlain established a fur trading post there, hence is credited for founding ‘New France’ and the French settlements.

As we know, the British began its colonisation of the ‘New World’ (the Americas) in 1607 and was considered a serious threat by the early French colonisers. Without delving into the various skirmishes and struggles for supremacy among the colonists during that era,the British won in 1673 and Canada was integrated into the British colonial system in North America. Despite the British rule, to this very day, colonial French influence is clearly stamped in Montreal’s culture, architecture and language.

As an avid Francophile myself, I was looking forward to hearing the charming and old-fashioned lilt of français québécois. It is said that it still sounds like the French language spoken 300 years ago apparently because when the British took Quebec, the French settlers were cut off from France and the French language used at the time, didn’t evolve to its modern day form.(Though written French and grammar is exactly the same as standard French). Despite British rule, French prevailed and is still widely spoken in Montreal with 56.9% of its population speaking French at home. Montreal is the second largest French-speaking city in the world, after Paris. In fact, French was named the official language of Quebec province after Bill 101 or the Charter of the French Language was passed in 1977.

We opted to stay in the historic and restored district of Vieux-Montréal (Old Montreal) for many reasons; one of them was its proximity to the cruise terminal on the Alexandra Pier (we were going to embark on the Seabourn Quest from Montreal for our Eastern Canada and New England, USA cruise). We chose to stay at Le Petit hotel, a hip and chic boutique hotel in a century old building. It came highly recommended and is well situated in the oldest street in Montreal, the Rue Saint Paul Ouest. This street is the heart of the art and food scene. Some of the buildings date back to the 17th century.

Old Montreal

Old Montreal, Credit : © Orlando G. Cerocchi

hotel

We didn’t waste time. After checking in, notwithstanding the light rain and freezing cold weather we walked down the cobbled stones of the narrow streets, to explore the food scene. We happened upon Bocata and Barroco restaurants.

Buzzing and lively, image courtesy of Tourisme Montréal

Buzzing and lively, image courtesy of Tourisme Montréal

Barroco Restaurants, image courtesy of Tourisme Montréal

Barroco Restaurants, image courtesy of Tourisme Montréal

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As the name suggests, we expected Italian food on the menu. We were pleasantly surprised however with the varied selection of modern fusion food and an extensive wine list, some served by the glass. It was crowded and having made no reservations, we sat right up at the bar and sampled various plates from the specials board and the menu. The restaurant had great ambience and a rustic décor but somehow managed to exude a very cool, funky feel, thanks to the trendy looking waiters and waitresses and young patrons. It was busy and vibrant. We enjoyed the whole experience so much we thought we would try another meal here before our departure.

Having no fixed itinerary nor a booked tour we planned to indulge our interest in architecture and visit some of the old buildings that date as far back as the 16th century as well as check out the other cultural attractions in Old Montreal (Vieux-Montréal). The district is so compact, about one square km (or 0.4 square mile) that we thought we would explore it on foot. The original quarter (known as Ville Marie) is bordered by Rue Saint-Antoine, the St. Lawrence River, Rue Berri and Rue McGil and can be explored with ease within a day. A self-guided tour map can be obtained from the tourist bureau located at 174 Notre-Dame St. East – corner of Place Jacques-Cartie.
So, the next day, armed with this information and useful advice from the helpful hotel concierge, for our first ‘must see’, we set off to visit the square known as Place d’Armes and the Notre Dame Basilica.

This beautiful church, the Notre Dame, is for me one of the focal points in the neighbourhood. Architecture, craftsmanship, history and religious heritage are evident upon entering this big church. Designed after the Sainte-Chapelle church in Paris, this Gothic inspired revival features beautiful stained glass windows by Quebec artist Jean-Baptiste Lagacé. Commissioned in 1929 for the Basilica’s centenary celebration, the windows depict the history of the early settlement of Ville Marie. The blue and gold colours dominating the altar and glass are stunning. The craftsmanship of the pulpit, statues and other pieces deserved closer inspection. We went back later in the evening to see the multimedia ‘Let there be light’ show, a brief history of the church and the settlement.

Basilica

We then headed east on Notre Dame Street for the next stop, which was the Place Jacques-Cartier. Wandering down, on the way, we stopped to admire the town hall, built between 1872 and 1878 in the ‘Second Empire ‘ style. Though it was a cold day, the walk was made interesting by the surrounding buildings and shops (art galleries caught our eye). On reaching Place Jacques Cartier we needed to quench our thirst and were feeling a bit peckish so we had a light lunch at one of the cafés, dining al fresco albeit, in the somewhat fresh weather. ‘People watching’ was called for. Just like most squares, Place Jacques-Cartier is the heart of the old district where locals and tourists hang out. The cobbled square is closed to traffic but made lively by various street performers, the flower market and other touristy shops. Before the ‘Place’ was built in 1804, the Château de Vaudreuil was located there. For many years, the Place Jacques-Cartier was used as a public market and was restored in 1998.

Artists' Row

Artists’ Row, Credit : © Canadian Tourism Commission

Revived from our pit stop, we proceeded down towards the edge of the road and found Marché Bonsecours (Bonsecours Market) at 350 rue Saint Paul. The Palladian style domed two-storey building was built in 1847 and was a public market for over 100 years. Specialty boutiques, art and craft shops and restaurants lure the tourists. An hour of browsing and a brief visit to the adjacent Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours(Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours Chapel – or Our Lady of Good Help) was next on the agenda. Walking further down towards Rue de la Commune, we could see the old port and the Pavilion Jacques Cartier.

We intended to have dinner at Au Pied de Cochon, (Address: 536 Avenue Duluth E, Montréal, QC H2L 1A9, Canada) which was highly recommended by my cousin (another foodie who lives in Toronto) but Dolcetto and Co nearby from our hotel looked so appealing with its nautical décor and scrumptious menu of light fare. An Italian bistro serving share plates and antipastos, the bar was well stocked and the service friendly and efficient. Anticipating 14 days of fine dining on board the Seabourn Quest in a couple of days, we thought we would go easy on our meals while in Montreal. My husband and I shared several small plates but the capresse è burrata, fig and foie gras flatbread stood out, washed with a nice bottle of Pinot Grigio. Delizioso (delicious)!

To market to market… Next on our list was the Marché Jean-Talon (Jean-Talon Market) at 7070, Henri-Julien St, south of Jean-Talon St in the Little Italy district. The next morning, we took the metro blue line toward Saint-Michel and got off at Jean-Talon station then walked a few yards heading west. (The compass app on my iPhone helped us get our bearings) We easily found one of Montréal’s farmers market. This market was opened in 1933 and is well patronised by the locals. It was crowded when we got there as this market has also become popular among tourists although it was not intended to be a tourist destination. In fact this is where chefs purchase their produce and ingredients. It is a covered market with a diverse selection of fresh produce, meat, fish fruit and vegetables. Merchants and vendors of cheese, bulk food, food stands, spices and imported goods are also found inside the covered area. Specialty shops such as La Boite Aux Huitres (seafood shop), Havre aux Glaces (ice cream and sorbet shop), Boulangerie Première Moisson (artisanal bakery with lots of delicious pastries and quiches on offer) make the market even more interesting. Having said that, what really caught our attention were the giant pumpkins on display for the Halloween pumpkin competition. As we were there in October jut a few weeks away from Halloween, the theme was evidently those of witches and ghouls, pumpkin lanterns that made the market all the more festive. After taking lots of photos, we purchased a variety of snack food of diverse origin and had those for lunch. There were in fact tables made available for people who wanted to eat their take out right there.Great way to soak in the ambience while tasting the influences of various ethnic groups that make up modern Montreal.

Markets
Markets
Markets
Markets
Markets
Markets
Markets
Markets
Markets
Jean-Talot

If food tells a story about a culture, its people and history, then one can indeed get a glimpse of Montreal’s interesting past right at the Jean Talon market. The French influence layered with the British is evident in the array of food and produce available. Canada’s immigrants from all over the world also take credit for the evolution of dishes with its layers and layers of complex tastes and ingredients. Chinese, Vietnamese, Indian, Italian, Spanish, middle eastern food…you name it, Montreal has it.

A good 3 hours later, we headed back to the subway and took the train for downtown to the Underground city, known to the locals as the RÉSO. Well not exactly true, as it is not a city underground because it is in actual fact a réseau (network) of multilevel tunnels and stairs connected to metro stations and sheltered pedestrian complex of shopping malls, offices, hotels, metro stations, concert halls. This city started from the interconnected tunnels of the subway system. Completed in 1966, it was really built to make shopping and getting around the city a bit more bearable during the harsh winters of Quebec.
It didn’t take long to satisfy our curiosity with this ‘must see’ place in Montreal as historic Old Montréal was waiting to be re-visited.

Underground City

That evening we went to browse a few of the art galleries at Rue St Paul Ouest and nearly bought a beautiful (small) sculpture from the Galerie Le Luxart(66 Rue Saint Paul O, Montréal, QC H2Y 1Y8, Canada). Unfortunately, it would have meant carting this around for the next leg of our journey and to have it shipped was not practical due to the weight. So we didn’t buy it. Pity!

Because we loved the atmosphere so much, that evening we returned to Bocata for our final meal in Montreal. This time, we had a heartier main course of the milk fed veal chop with gnocchi for me, and the maple roasted duck magret for my husband- Italian and French fusion. This is what food in Montreal is all about. Fusion! It was a night to remember, a truly great way to end our stay in Montreal. Loved it!

The next day, we meandered around some parts of the old town again before rolling our suitcases (literally) from our hotel down the cobbled narrow street leading to the cruise terminal where we were to embark on the Seabourn Quest for a 14 day cruise of eastern Canada, New England USA, South Carolina and Florida.

Cruises

Cruises, Credit : © Tourisme Montréal, Stéphan Poulin

Many thanks to Tourisme Montréal for allowing us to use these beautiful professional images

times-square-3

New York to Montreal via the Adirondacks

Autumn in New York and New England were on our globe trotting list so when our son went to Vancouver Canada for an indefinite stay, we decided to pay him a visit…in autumn. But, since flying out of Australia beyond the Asia Pacific region is a long haul we always make the most of a trip by visiting as many places as we possibly can. For this journey, it was an opportunity to revisit New York and to savour outstanding cuisine. It was also a perfectly good excuse to see the autumn foliage in the New England coastline before we make our way to Vancouver in the west Coast of Canada. As if these were not enough, it was a perfect time to satisfy our interest to try the Adirondack (Amtrak) service from New York to Montreal where we would board a Seabourn cruise bound for ports of interest in Eastern Canada, the east coast of USA- New England then Charleston and Florida. A ridiculously long way to get to Vancouver, but why not? So, from Australia, the first stop was New York.

During our last trip to New York, Central Park was knee deep in snow. It was a magical sight! At the time, my husband was in New York on business but we managed to include the usual sightseeing around Lower Manhattan and Wall Street, Battery Park and Staten Island, Tribeca and Little Italy. This time around, we wanted to see Central Park in autumn and enjoy the cool weather, that nip in the air conducive to sightseeing on foot and see the fabulous landscape and colours associated with autumn leaves…red, gold, orange. New York is always an exciting place to visit. So much to see and do but if a traveller only has a few days like we did, it’s best to plan and prioritise. On this trip, other than a stroll to Central park, we chose to explore the streets around the Upper East Side, Midtown and to visit a couple of our favourite galleries and museum.

Central Park is huge…more than 750 acres of urban garden, the first landscaped park in the USA, and an oasis in a concrete jungle right smack in the middle of upper Manhattan. In the 19th century, thanks to the wealthy merchants and residents of New York who agitated for the state government to allocate land to create a park, a place of recreation for the public was designed. It was at the time, America’s answer to the gardens in Paris, London and other European cities. There are different ways to see and explore the park. On our first day, we devoted time to walk from the south entrance and see specific sights right up to the eastern side, the middle and the west. Having said that, there were many tourists who chose to cycle (rent a bike) hire a pedicab tour or take the horse drawn carriage. Of particular interest to us were the Bethesda Fountain and Terrace, the Obelisk, Conservatory Pond, Belvedere lake and Castle (mid –park) and up the northern end, the Harlem Meer and the picturesque Huddlestone Arch.

Central Park NY
Central Park NY
Central Park NY
Central Park NY
Central Park NY
Central Park NY

It took us nearly the entire day to enjoy the park but we still had time to have a quick look at the exterior of The Guggenheim museum on our stroll back along 5th avenue (corner 89th). The interesting cylindrical building designed by Frank Lloyd Wright is now on our ‘must visit’ place for the next New York visit; one that will be exclusively for a trip to galleries and museums that dot Manhattan’s streets.

A visit to New York has to include a stop at the iconic Grand Central Station, regarded as the busiest rail terminal in the world. Built in 1871 this engineering and architectural marvel is linked to 19th century legendary American rail and shipping magnate, Cornelius Vanderbilt. The New York Times has a very interesting YouTube video video about the Grand Central and its secrets.

Grand Central Station NY
Grand Central Station NY
Grand Central Station NY
Grand Central Station NY
Grand Central Station NY

Not only is this building one of New York’s famous landmarks, it is also where one of New York’s older culinary establishments is located (at the basement). Fondly known as The Oyster Bar, we think of this restaurant as the place to go to for some of the freshest and succulent seafood. I sort of knew that oysters were associated with ‘New York food’ along with hotdogs, pretzels and the like but it wasn’t until I saw an image at the New York public library that I was educated about the history of oysters as a staple in New York eateries. According to food historians, this was the case even as early as when the Europeans settled after Henry Hudson sailed into the Hudson river. In fact, even before the Europeans came, the Indians were already harvesting and shucking oysters which were abundant. Oysters were plentiful in the lower Hudson estuary and the waters around Ellis and Liberty islands. In time, enterprising colonists opened up what they called the oyster cellars which became commonplace in the city’s early history. The rich supply of oysters at the time meant that even those who were not wealthy could afford to have the large and succulent New York oysters from street vendors. These were consumed in the streets just like one does these days with hotdogs. According to a former New York Times restaurant critic William Grimes, oysters were regular and common ingredients to New York food. His book, Appetite City: A Culinary History of New York is a fascinating read for foodies. It was with oysters in mind that we had dinner at The Oyster Bar. Not only does this celebrated restaurant have an interesting menu of raw and a variety of cooked oysters, there are options of other seafood and non-seafood meals as well. The Oyster Bar was established in 1913 in the lower concourse of Grand Central station and has become a New York attraction since then. We think it is a fine testament to New York’s early culinary history.

The Oyster Bar - Grand Central Station
The Oyster Bar - Grand Central Station
The Oyster Bar - Grand Central Station

Celebrity travel writer, Paul Theroux said that travellers (as opposed to tourists) ‘observe’. On every journey, we are by definition ‘tourists’ trying to cram as many things to do, see and experience. However, we do try and make every effort to observe and engage other travellers and locals, simply because we learn from them. We found that by doing so , we are guaranteed to have travel experiences that are more enjoyable and unforgettable. At our dinner at The Oyster Bar, the waiter entertained and educated us with tidbits, trivia and facts about the restaurant, its history and the food we ordered. Next to our table, dining by herself was an elegantly dressed lady, an obvious regular client at The Oyster Bar. We initiated a conversation with her, seeing she was dining alone. We had a most interesting and informative evening as it turned out that she was a former resident of New York. She gave us plenty of advice to chew on for our next intended visit to New York; the one which will focus on galleries and museums. As it turned out, she is heavily involved with the arts herself and was in New York City for a few days to attend gallery function and exhibits.

Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant
Location: Grand Central Terminal
Address: 89 E 42nd St, New York, NY 10017, United States
Phone:+1 212-490-6650
Hours: Monday to Saturday 11;30 a.m. to 9:30 pm
Sunday and major holidays: Closed

MOMA (Museum of Modern Art) was the next on our list for this trip. A walking distance from our hotel in upper Manhattan, it is located in Midtown Manhattan in New York City, on 53rd Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues. Established in 1929, MOMA has almost 200,000 works of art from around the world; Picasso, Calo, Warhol, Dali… some obscure, most are by famous artists.The list goes on and on. One needs a day to explore the extensive collection and exhibition of modern art expressed in various mediums. Even then, it won’t be a comprehensive viewing. There is so much to see it warrants another visit.
Address: 11 W 53rd St, New York
Hours: Daily from 10:30 a.m. to 5:30

A leisurely stroll to explore Midtown was invigorating. New York has a unique and exhilarating energy, which is contagious. We could have just kept on walking, absorbing, observing and admiring buildings, monuments and surrounds. A stop at Bryant Garden behind the Public Library took us to the Bryant Park Grill, a charming Parisian style bistro set in the middle of one of Manhattan’s beautiful gardens. Resting our weary feet we could only have drinks enjoyed at their rooftop as we already have made dinner reservations at the Red Eye Grill, across Carnegie Hall. A pity, because a glance at their menu promised what I’m sure would be delicious options of good modern American cuisine. One can choose casual dining in the alfresco setting and the Grill for a more formal dinner.

Bryant Garden
Bryant Garden

New York is a major point of entry for immigrants. Haven’t we all seen and know of the statue of Liberty, an enduring symbol of welcome to those who fled their countries and seek freedom from oppression? A quote from Emma Lazarus ‘poem, The New Colossus, associated with the statue of Liberty- “Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to breathe free” – says it all. Consequently, New York is one of the most ethnically diverse cities in America. From its early beginnings as a Dutch enclave, early European colonists populated New York but in the mid 19th century to the mid 20th century, the Irish, Germans, Russians, many South East Asians, Central Americans and Caribbean came to America via New York and stayed there to call it home. Can you imagine then the variety of food that has since evolved and are identified with New York? The city’s cuisine is so varied and speaks of its rich history. One can find the ethnic influence on street food (stands or trucks serving tacos, hot dogs to name a few), bakeries and delis (bagels, pretzels, pastrami in Reuben sandwiches) diners (clam chowder, Waldorf salad) and yes, restaurants such as The Oyster Bar and the Grill at Bryant Park…both have food in their menu that speak of the layers of flavours influenced by New York’s multi ethnic population.

Our last meal in New York was at the Red Eye Grill, a buzzing and hip restaurant located at 890, 7Th Avenue. Needless to say, the offerings were varied, from seafood, steak and a very modern fusion American cuisine; the restaurant also has a sushi and oyster bar. Surely this has to be indication of the varied mix of cuisine in New York? We had a thoroughly fun evening served by very able hostesses and the live band providing the right mood.

Ending our last night in New York was a stroll back to Midtown to join the hundreds of tourists and pedestrians milling around Times Square. Renowned as the place to be on New Year’s Eve to witness the ‘ball drop’ from the roof of the old New York Times building (now known as One Times Square) this junction between Broadway and Seventh Avenue attract as many as an estimated 50 million tourists every year. The best time to visit Times Square is at night when, as you can imagine, brightly coloured billboards and other outdoor advertising are lit up and street performers and buskers entertain the visitors. Every night, Times Square being the hub of the Broadway theatre district is alive and buzzing and for the tourists, visitors and residents alike there’s a myriad of entertain options. It’s one big party!

Times Square
Times Square
Times Square
Times Square
Times Square
Times Square
Times Square
Times Square

Although excited to move on, we were hesitant to leave New York but Eastern Canada beckoned. The next morning we dutifully boarded the Amtrak Adirondack service for Montreal at Penn station.

mudpot1

Yellowstone National Park

We left Chicago behind, albeit reluctantly. When we booked our first ever Amtrak vacation, it was on a whim but at the heart of it all was to experience the California Zephyr. This train journey is considered to be one of the prettiest and scenic routes across the USA. It starts from Chicago Illinois to Emeryville California (San Francisco). To reach the west coast, the train crosses the state of Illinois, over the Mississippi River, then to the states of Iowa, Nebraska, Colorado Utah and Nevada. Without getting off the stops, the journey takes two nights and three days, covering 2438 miles (3923.5km). A truly fantastic and relaxing way to see the breathtaking views across America.

With the California Zephyr as our mode of transport, we were in a great position to see the rest of America from the Midwest to the West. We also had the opportunity to stop in Utah so we could make our way north to visit Yellowstone National Park in Wyoming. Well, not exactly just in Wyoming as this huge park, the first national park in the USA, and part of the South Central Rockies forests is actually in three states: most of it in Wyoming, then straddling Montana and Idaho.

The California Zephyr stopped at Salt Lake City, where we got off very late at night after having thoroughly enjoyed the scenery along the way (not to mention the food prepared on the train). An overnight stay at Salt Lake City prepared us for our road trip to Yellowstone on our rental car, going north to Wyoming and Montana that led us to the west entrance of Yellowstone National Park. (There are 5 entrances to Yellowstone; the west adjacent to the town of West Yellowstone, Montana, the north in Gardiner Montana, the northeast entrance in Cooke city, Montana, East entrance in Cody, Wyoming and the south in Jackson, Wyoming).It was a very easy and scenic five hour drive through alpine forests and snow capped mountains visible in the horizon and approximately 370 miles ( 595 Km) from Salt Lake City.
Yellowstone National Park road map

It may have been spring but light snow dusted the roads and was a novel sight for us, having come from sub-tropical Queensland Australia where we don’t get snow.
Yellowstone National Park
Yellowstone National Park

Food was not the motivation to see Yellowstone. When we included the stop at Salt Lake City, we asked for an independent package, with focus on seeing the main attractions we’ve heard so much about and seen on the National Geographic wildlife TV series. Yellowstone National Park, has an area of 3,468.4 square miles (8,983 km2), made up of mountains, lakes, geothermal areas, canyons, and rivers. It is known for its wildlife, protected and left in their natural habitat. It is so vast that to see the entire area would be impossible to do even if one opted to stay there for a month. The National Park Services (NPS) manages the park, making sure that while visitors enjoy what numerous activities and sights there are, the natural beauty is preserved and the wildlife and ecosystem are protected. Although archaeological evidence shows that humans( thought to be nomadic hunters and predecessors of Native American tribes) inhabited this area as far back as 11,000 years ago, the first Western man to discover Yellowstone was John Colter, who in 1807 was part of the Lewis and Clark expedition to the Pacific (Corps of Discovery Expedition from St Louis to the Pacific coast). No one quite believed his account of the geothermal wonders he stumbled upon. However proof of these discoveries was made in 1869 when the Folsom-Cook expedition made the first formal exploration to Yellowstone, followed in 1871 with an exploration by government geologist Ferdinand Hayden, photographer William Jackson and landscape artist Thomas Moran. With visual evidence recorded from the expedition, US Congress acted to allocate and protect the area as the first US national park. In 1872, President Grant signed the bill into law, known as the Yellowstone Act of 1872.

As we made our way to the entrance, we could only thank these men for having had the foresight to preserve this beautiful wild place for everyone to enjoy and experience. The sight of wild bisons and elk grazing on the snow sprinkled grassland and some ambling alongside our car, totally unperturbed by humans was certainly unusual. This shouldn’t have surprised us as Yellowstone is home to grizzly bears, wolves, herds of bisons and elk as well as mountain goats, ospreys, eagles… you name it, and Yellowstone has it.

Bison
Bison

Settling at the Yellowstone Park hotel, we intended to see as much as we could with the little time we had for this stop. Our priority was to see the geothermal features of Yellowstone Park, the mudpots, hot springs, mud volcanos, geysers notably Old Faithful (known for its frequent and predictive eruptions), canyons, waterfalls and lakes. We were informed that the wildlife is abundant and as long as we played by the rules, we should be safe. Many visitors were there to look for bears as they came out of their winter hibernation in caves, but we were just as content to blend in with the wildlife and experience the natural wonders of this vast place.

(Note: it is best to prioritise and plan way ahead. The NPS and Yellowstone Park websites and
have numerous information and trip planners for the visitors).

If like us, time is an issue, the best way to get around and explore Yellowstone is by car unless of course hiking and camping are the preferred options. With approximately 350 miles of sealed road, most areas are accessible for driving tourists. There is an entrance fee for visitors upon entry including private and non commercial vehicles.

As there are no shuttle buses in Yellowstone we booked a couple of days with Xanterra Parks & Resorts to provide us their bus tour within the park. At the height of the summer season there are many other commercial bus tours from outside the park offering tours from different entry points and towns.

At the NPS West Yellowstone Visitor Information centre, armed with various maps and literature, we waited for our bus to take us to our chosen first point of interest, the Fountain Paint Pot area within the Lower Geyser Basin. Here, four types of hydrothermal features were concentrated, namely; geysers, hot springs, mudpots and fumaroles. The number of thermal features in Yellowstone is estimated at 10,000. Following the walking trail, we were mindful of the toxic gases emitted by these steaming treasures and attentive of the warnings and stories of accidents or foolish actions of visitors that have resulted to death. One story in particular was of a man who jumped (head first) in the pool of steaming boiling hot water in an attempt to rescue his friend’s dog, which had jumped into the mudpots. The man of course died of burns quite slowly (he was still conscious and alive when rescued), went blind and his entire body covered with three-degree burns. Hence the BOLD warning with the sign: DO NOT TAKE YOUR DOG ON TRAILS IN YELLOWSTONE.

Old Faithful Geyser
Mudpot
Fumarole

The hot springs average a temperature of 150 degrees Fahrenheit or 66 Celsius and can reach temperatures of 185 to 105 Degrees F ( 85-96C). That’s HOT in any language!
Numerous stories of this nature was chronicled in a book we picked up in a generals store at Gardiner, Montana ( at the north entrance) by Lee H. Whittlesey , called Death in Yellowstone. A very interesting read and may even be available on Amazon.com

Death in Yellowstone
The next stop was at the Old Faithful historic district , and the world famous cone geyser, Old faithful. It was the first geyser named by the members of the Washburn-Langford-Doane Expedition in 1870 and is also the most visited hydrothermal curiosity at Yellowstone. Old Faithful erupts regularly; hence the term ‘predictive’. To this very day, rangers can predict the eruptions which is about every 60-110 minutes depending on the duration of the last eruption. The geyser can emit about 3,700 to 8,400 US gallons (14,000 to 32,000 L) of boiling water to a height of 106 to 185 feet (32 to 56 m) lasting from 1.5 to 5 minutes. Hot water can shoot up to 140 feet into the air on average. If you’ve come all the way to this part of America, it is almost a crime not to wait and see this awesome sight( insert video 869). The Old Faithful Visitor Education Center on site provided visitors with information and holds an exhibit of Yellowstone’s hydrothermal features, which is really educational and fascinating.

I couldn’t resist not talking a little bit about food, although as mentioned, food wasn’t on our minds when we planned the 3-day visit to Yellowstone. Despite my lack of culinary expectations, dinner at the Bar N Ranch restaurant was a delightful surprise. With its rustic setting, a view of the mountain and excellent service, we had no trouble enjoying the bison casserole ( for me) and the bison rib eye and filet ( for my husband) and side dishes of potatoes and corn. We also had a good meal at the Buffalo bar. In fact there are dining choices a plenty in West Yellowstone. Best to ask your concierge or explore the small town.

Bison casserole

The next day, Canyon trail and Lower Falls was on the agenda. Not as big as the Grand Canyon, this formation is nevertheless spectacular and breathtaking and is one of the most photographed features in all of Yellowstone. Viewed from several vantage points, the visitor can really appreciate the beauty and splendour of this little understood complex geological feature. At the time we were there, some areas were closed to vehicles but for our benefit,our guide pointed out the best available points for photo-shoots. We couldn’t get enough of the spectacular view and still regard this attraction one of the better sights in Yellowstone.
Yellowstone mountains
Yellowstone mountains
Yellowstone mountains

It is common knowledge that Americans are patriotic and love their country with a fierceness very few other nationalities have towards their own homeland. With what we have seen in this journey and for many other reasons (America is indeed a beautiful and diverse country to start with), it’s not surprising that many Americans spend their vacations within their country. During the height of summer, the camping grounds in Yellowstone are littered with tents, Winnebago, and other camper vans. Hikers also take this time of the year to explore the attractions of Yellowstone. It’s always best to plan your trip to Yellowstone and check the accessibility and opening dates and times of the various attractions, roads and other activities including fishing in the lake (summer) and snow boarding in winter. Here are a couple of links that are worth looking at prior to finalising a trip to Yellowstone.

http://yellowstone.net/intro/top-10/

http://www.nps.gov/yell/index.htm